Land of Passage: Crossing the Mare e Monti in 3 Days with Damien Largeron
Between sea and mountains, Corsica offers some of the most spectacular playgrounds in Europe for trail runners. While the famous GR20 attracts enthusiasts from all over the world every year, other lesser-known routes allow visitors to discover the island from a different perspective. This is the case of the Mare e Monti, a trail crossing the western coastline between Calenzana and Cargèse, alternating technical sections, remote villages, and open sea views.
In April 2026, Damien Largeron set out on a three-day self-supported crossing with his friends Antoine and Hugo. Their goal: cover around 120 kilometers and 6,000 meters of elevation gain, moving exclusively on trails.
“Our idea was simple: discover an alternative to the GR20 and see what this route really had to offer.”
The result: three days of sustained effort, constant adaptation to the terrain, and full immersion in one of the wildest environments in the Mediterranean.
Day 0: From daily life to full commitment – La Vanoise → Corsica
Wednesday, April 8, 4:50 a.m. The alarm is brutal, but motivation takes over. Heading to Corsica from Savoie, with a sequence of trains and a ferry that already marks the beginning of the adventure.
The previous days have been intense, and the body is still recovering as best it can after several demanding training days and the first post-winter trail race. Recovery has also been very active: ski touring, climbing, trail running… Rest remains relative. But that is the reality of the field: learning to deal with fatigue and still perform.
On paper, the plan is simple: go from Calenzana to Cargèse in 3 days. In reality, it is a different story.
Day 1: Finding the rhythm – Calenzana → Galéria
41 km | 1,700 m D+
The crossing begins in the village of Calenzana, a well-known starting point for hikers as it also marks the beginning of the GR20. The first kilometers actually share the same trail before the Mare e Monti gradually branches off toward the coast.
The terrain quickly alternates between runnable single tracks, rocky sections, and ridge paths offering open views over the Bay of Calvi. From the very first hours, the environment reflects what makes Corsican trail running unique: a constant blend of sea and mountains, where landscapes shift with every climb.
“I’m loving it: the sea on one side, snow-covered peaks on the other.”
The progression is smooth, but the terrain remains demanding. After about 40 minutes, Antoine takes a heavy fall on a rocky section. A reminder that Corsican trails leave no room for inattention. Fortunately, it’s more of a scare than anything else, and the trio quickly resumes their pace.
The day continues through pine forests and ridge crossings. Natural water sources become essential for self-sufficiency, especially as the heat gradually builds. After around 1,500 meters of ascent, the route drops into a long descent toward Galéria..
The final rolling section already puts the bodies to the test..
“Our ankles, more used to ski boots than trail shoes, are starting to complain.”.
Arrival in Galéria marks the first real break. Hosted by a local resident, the group enjoys a hearty meal and recovery time before the toughest stage ahead.
Day 2: Physical and mental challenge – Galéria → Évisa
45 km | 3,100 m D+
With more than 3,000 meters of elevation gain, the second day is the physical heart of the crossing. The route mostly follows the coastline, through inaccessible villages and suspended trails, mixing runnable and technical sections.
The 45 kilometers unfold as a succession of spectacular and wild landscapes. The feeling of isolation is total.
“We never expected such a visual shock.”
One of the highlights is Girolata, a village accessible only on foot or by boat. Nestled in a turquoise bay, it contrasts sharply with the solitude of the trail.
Despite the temptation to stay longer, the trio quickly continues toward Porto on a particularly technical coastal path. Temperatures rise, and energy management becomes crucial.
The final section crosses the Spelunca Canyon, a stone-paved trail winding between massive granite cliffs—a spectacular setting for the last kilometers.
But one final challenge remains: a 600-meter climb to reach Évisa. After more than ten hours of effort, each progresses at their own rhythm.
Arrival at the hotel in the evening marks the end of a demanding stage and confirms that the finish is now within reach.
Day 3: Going all the way – Évisa → Cargèse
35 km | 1,250 m D+
The final stage is the shortest, but still technically demanding. After two intense days, fatigue accumulates and progression requires patience.
“The muscles are stiff, and the mind is slightly worn down.”
The trail crosses dry, mineral maquis where heat quickly becomes heavy. Mental fatigue sets in. Climbs feel longer, silence takes over, and each runner progresses at their own pace.
“I hold on, I struggle, then I accept this deep fatigue.”
Gradually, the landscape opens and the first views of the coast appear. The goal becomes tangible: Plage de Peru.
Driven by the desire to reach the sea and dive into the water that has accompanied them for three days, the pace picks up again. The final section becomes more runnable before reaching the coast near Cargèse, where Peru Beach marks the symbolic finish.
After three days of effort, the Mediterranean becomes the ultimate reward.
“The wind, the waves, the salt. We’re exhausted, but happy.”
Final words from Damien
“Each day amazed us. We kept discovering incredible landscapes one after another. Our goal was to explore an alternative to the famous GR20, and we were not disappointed.
What a privilege to experience this simply with our legs and a backpack. It makes you want to explore every trail on the island. The Island of Beauty truly lived up to its name. One thing is certain: we’ll be back.”
